I USED TO LOVE THE LANGUAGE BARRIER. It kept everything foreign, different, making each meal at a chinese restaurant more chinese simply because I couldn’t understand anything. I didn’t need to understand, back then I just wanted good food. Of course I also used to order general tso’s chicken thinking it was authentic cuisine straight from Zhongguo.
It’s the details that make everything great at Frank Ma’s. The way Amy Ma welcomes you when you first enter; how the server smiles, surprised when your Caucasian dinner-mate actually orders her food in Mandarin. The way the food comes out with the wok-essence infused, visibly floating upward, intertwined with the rising steam. Dumplings cooked to perfection, balancing the pan fried outer texture with the heavenly ingredients within. Entrees prepared with copious amounts of oil, leaving residual spoonfuls only adding to the flavor, multiplying the desired effects. Your meal will definitely make you happy.
On this sunday afternoon with the restaurant near empty, it’s just my girlfriend and me. Frank Ma stops by our table and ask how is everything. “Hen hao chi” she says and a surprised smile registers on Frank’s face. I sit there quietly eating my gloriously roasted Beijing duck, trying to avoid letting on that the only Mandarin I know is from lesson one of Pimsleur. She tells him of her time studying in Beijing and his eyes light up. Question after question he asks while I reach across the table with my chopsticks, snap at some perfectly braised eggplant and fill my mouth repeatedly while they talk back and forth.
Hongshao qiezi is one of the few vegetarian dishes I can always count on. Every restaurant has a slight recipe variation but all of them satisfy completely. If you’re vegetarian and you’re tired of eating fried rice with steamed vegetables or any number of tofu substitutions, try this Chinese eggplant dish. Even if it’s not on the menu, ask for it and nine times out of ten they’ll prepare it for you. The stuff at Frank Ma’s is on par with the best.
I sit facing a wall of mirrors. The air outside is crisp and a thin layer of snow still covers the ground. I watch reflections as person after person comes in from the cold and is greeted by Amy Ma before walking to the back where a meeting is beginning. I eavesdrop, trying to identify the handful of words I understand, listening for tones, attempting to gain a language immersion lesson for free – all of it lost on me as I get distracted by the arrival of more food. Sliced fish in hot oil is so much more than the title suggests and insanely fulfilling as my rice catches every flavor. If I could lick my plate without being seen, I’d do it in a heartbeat. And no matter how incorrect the sentence; this food tastes beautiful.
Frank Ma is looking at me, expecting me not to be rude and finally say something. He speaks perfect English, but instead I meekly respond Wo hui shuo yidianr putonghua with a Beijing accent sounding a bit like a pirate. I add Wo shi Feilubinren explaining that I’m Filipino. He grins and says in English, “Keep working on it”. Just then a crash of dropped metal clangs from the kitchen and he abruptly walks away.
I look at our empty plates. The table top is covered with evidence of an excellent meal, meaning not a single morsel of food is left. Mandarin being spoken in the kitchen carries out and fills the dining area mingling with the noise from the meeting in back. Laughter mixes in with exclamations while the big screen television shows a celebration taking place somewhere in Taiwan. Reaching across the table my girlfriend holds my hand and tells me wo ai ni. I don’t know this term but like the food at Frank Ma’s, translation is not needed – everything here taste beautiful.
Tags: Frank. Ma’s. Atlanta. Restaurant. Review. Chinese. Best. Buford. Highway. Authentic.
Frank Ma’s
Da San Yuan
5389 New Peachtree Rd.
Chamblee, GA 30341
(770) 234-4885
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